Category Archives: Breads

Sour Cream Waffles, two ways

You may think I’ve only photographed the blueberry waffle, but no, the bottom waffle in the back is the Chocolate Chip one!

As followers of my blog may be aware I have a boy and a girl. The boy likes bold flavors. He makes hot sauce (like Tabasco) with his daddy. The girl eats in the “white” food group: potatoes, chicken, pancakes, waffles, apples, bananas, etc. with a few exceptions like salmon (because it’s pink!), hot dogs (ditto) and strawberries (almost pink!). However, my boy and girl have come to an impasse. The boy has tired of my chocolate chip waffles. He’d like a different flavor. The girl seeks no such change. There will never be anything wrong with chocolate chip waffles to her. Ever. She could have the same three meals forever: chocolate chip waffles (or doughnuts), hot dogs, and salmon. The girl never tires of the tried and true.

So, as I was looking through my fridge I noticed a container of sour cream I bought for a meal and forgot to put out. Oops. It’s about to expire,. I also have some blueberries that I bought as a snack for my son. Apparently, he found other things on which to snack. Imagine. Anyway, I asked him about blueberry waffles. He enthusiastically said yes and asked if I can add some lemon flavor to it, because he likes that combination. Ok….

At this point, the girl has stated that she will not eat blueberry pancakes. Of course she won’t. So, decide to divide the batter in half. Some for the blueberry and lemon waffles and some for the chocolate chip waffles. Oh the mess I will make!! The dishes I will do!

So, I need a waffle recipe to use up my sour cream. I don’t like wasting money on food I forgot I had! The White House Cookbook by Fannie Lemira Gillette (1887) and The Good Housekeeping Woman’s Home Cook Book by Isabel Gordon Curtis (1909) have recipes for “Cream Waffles” that use sour cream (but ironically, not cream). James Beard has a recipe in his American Cookery (1972) that is nearly the same of the aforementioned titles. I think sour cream may be have been different back then. I made the recipe and ended up with a really thick batter that wasn’t pouring anywhere, much less onto a waffle iron. So, I thinned out the batter with whole milk to make it pourable and problem solved. The waffles are really rich and very good. Even the blueberry lemon ones!! If you want to only make one type of waffle, just double the extra ingredients of the type of waffle you want to make (e.g. 2 cups of blueberries, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons of flour).

Sour Cream Waffles, two ways

Base batter:

1 3/4 cups sifted all purpose flour (I used 1 cup all purpose and 3/4 cup white whole wheat)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sugar
2 cups sour cream
3 eggs
6 tablespoons melted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 cup whole milk

For 1/2 Blueberry and Lemon Waffles:
1 cup blueberries, rinsed
1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon lemon juice

For 1/2 Chocolate Chip Waffles
1 1/4 cups semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips

Preheat waffle iron, grease iron when hot with spray oil.

Combine the dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar) in a large mixing bowl and whisk together until combined and aerated.

In a separate, smaller mixing bowl, whisk together the sour cream, eggs, butter, vanilla extract, and 1 cup of the milk.

Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. If the batter is too think, add the remaining milk in parts until the right consistency is achieved. Divide the batter in half and separate.

Blueberry and Lemon Waffles:

In a small bowl, combine the blueberries with the flour, coating the blueberries well. Gently fold the blueberries and the lemon juice into half of the batter and cook according to your waffle iron’s instructions.

Chocolate Chip Waffles:

Stir the chocolate chips into the remaining 1/2 of the batter and cook according to your waffle iron’s instructions.

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Blueberry Sour Cream Quick Bread

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I’m not a big bread person, but I had such a good time with the #twelveloaves challenge last month, I decided to do it again.   This month, the theme is berries.  Generally speaking, I don’t like cooked berries.  They tend to be mushy and cloying.  I love berries in their raw, full, ripeness.   The one exception, however, is blueberries.  Blueberries raw are tart and lack the mouth feel of a good strawberry.  But cooked, they are a beautiful purple explosion in the middle of what is usually a pale yellow confection.

Blueberry muffins are seriously my favorite muffins.   I  know, how retro, not cool like scones, I suppose.  Can I rant? Muffins have become these gargantuan bakery items with every single imaginable flavor foisted upon it.  Remember when chocolate chip muffins were a big deal?  Now, it’s double chocolate chip muffins with cayenne or sea salt caramel or some such awful twist.  I saw a maple bacon muffin.  Seems a little “try hard”.  Meanwhile, what makes a good bakery product seems to get lost in the quest for unique flavor.  Sure, the muffins are huge, but they are likely a dry mess with an overly big top that comes easily apart from the bottom. Not hardly worth the $2 they are charging for them.  Rant over.

Quick breads are so called because they don’t use yeast, thus no need to wait for a “rise”.  Using yeast as a leavening agent was slow and not always consistent.  As chemistry was applied to cooking, someone thought to combine baking soda with an acid like lemon juice, buttermilk, or vinegar and a little heat to give “rise” to cakes and breads.  Thusly creating rise with no yeast.   The “rise” of the quick breads starts around the mid 18th century.  Without this step forward, brownies, cakes, and some cookies would really not be made.  As time progressed, chemists worked to create a powder that combined the base and the acid, but that didn’t react until instigated by the presence of a liquid.  Baking powder (baking soda and a powdered acid like cream of tartar) in its various brand incarnations  (Rumford,  Calumet, Clabber Girl, etc.) was born.  If you have ever wondered why recipes have both baking powder and baking soda, you’ll probably see elsewhere in the recipe an acid.  If so,  the recipe is adjusting the baking powder downward because baking soda alone will react with the acid.  No need to make the dish unpleasantly bitter with acid in both the baking powder and the acidic ingredient.

Could I translate the parts that I love from my muffin recipes into quick bread?  Plus, I have some sour cream in my fridge that I need to get rid of before it expires, could I include that?

I could.  And I did.

I love the combination of blueberry and citrus.  Round out the flavors with bourbon vanilla and this is my ideal flavor profile for blueberry muffins.

Blueberry Sour Cream Quick Bread

2 cups and 1 teaspoon All Purpose Flour, used separately
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 cup sugar
1 large egg
1 cup sour cream
1/2 cup milk
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon bourbon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 cup blueberries

Streusel topping
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons of flour
2 tablespoons of butter

Grease a 9×5 loaf pan and set aside
Preheat oven to 375

Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl, whisk or mix briefly to aerate. Add the butter and sugar and beat until the butter is in small pieces.

In a separate mixing bowl, combine the egg, sour cream, milk, honey, vanilla and zests. Mix until well combined. Pour the liquid mixture into the dry mixture. Mix the dry and wet mixtures until they are just combined.  This will look really dry.

In a small bowl, combine the remaining 1 teaspoon of flour and blueberries. Toss blueberries until well coated.

Gently fold the blueberries into the batter. Pour the batter into the loaf pan. Combine all the ingredients for the streusel topping and place on top of mixture.

Bake at 375 for about 60 minutes. Check at intervals after 45 minutes to avoid overcooking.

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Really dry looking batter!

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Dusting the berries with flour keeps them all from sinking to the bottom.

Waffles!

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Waffles are a really, really old food.  So old, that there is reference to them in Chaucer’s The Canterbury Tales the 14th Century!   Puritans, fleeing English persecution, stayed for a bit in Belgium and brought the waffle to colonies.    Thomas Jefferson, according to legend, brought a waffle maker from France and threw lavish waffle parties.    Who doesn’t love a good waffle?

I really, really love waffles. When I was a kid (and there were only 3 channels on the tv), all we had were pancakes. Waffles were restaurant type food. Fancy stuff, not something mom would just make for breakfast. Even though pancakes are made with essentially the same batter, the batter was transformed into something special on the waffle iron. Crunchy, yet tender. Somehow always sweeter.

In 2009, Kellogg’s put out a press release saying it would have to ration its Eggo Waffles due to a flooded plant in Atlanta and issues with a bakery in Tennessee.  This shortage was a really big deal at the time.   There were panicked consumers stocking up just like when Hostess recently shuttered it factories. I should confess,  I have a hard time understanding why one would pay for a frozen waffle.  They don’t taste particularly good and are insanely expensive, given the ingredients (ingredients listed are for Eggo’s Homestyle Waffles):

Enriched flour (wheat flour, niacin, reduced iron, vitamin B1 [thiamin mononitrate], vitamin B2 [riboflavin], folic acid), water, vegetable oil (soybean, palm, and/or canola oil), eggs, leavening (baking soda, sodium aluminum phosphate, monocalcium phosphate), contains 2% or less of sugar, salt, whey, soy lecithin, yellow 5, yellow 6.

Vitamins and Minerals:  Calcium carbonate, vitamin A palmitate, reduced iron, niacinamide, vitamin B12, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine hydrochloride), vitamin B1 (thiamin hydrochloride), vitamin B2 (riboflavin).

I think the normal price is about $2.50 per 10 ounce package.  The organic brand (Van’s) is $3.50 per 8 ounce package.  The ingredients aren’t really much different:

Water, Organic Whole Wheat Flour, Organic Unbleached Wheat Flour, Organic Soybean Oil, Organic Oat Fiber, Organic Cane Sugar, Baking Powder (Baking Soda, Sodium Acid Pyrophosphate, Monocalcium Phosphate), Organic Cornstarch, Organic Malt Extract, Sea Salt, Organic Soy Lecithin, Organic Guar Gum, Organic Caramel Color.

I’m not sure how I acquired my first waffle iron.  I just remember buying a box of frozen waffles and thinking how EXPENSIVE they were.  And I had to buy 2 boxes for just the weekdays.  I decided to buy a waffle iron and try it out.  It was so easy!  My kids pretty much eat waffles every day for breakfast. I make them on the weekend, freeze them, and toast them all week.  It’s really not that hard and makes my mornings SO easy.  I make eggs or reheat sausage made the night before and toast the waffle.  Viola!  Breakfast. Of course, my kids now think pancakes are a special treat!  The ingredients I use are organic or pastured and I don’t need guar gum and colors to make them look good.  And, the fat in the recipe is butter versus soybean/vegetable oil.  Needless to say, they are a lot cheaper!

Waffles require a gentle touch.  The key is bubble maintenance.   A good waffle recipe has two methods to infuse bubbles into the batter.  One is through chemistry.  The combination of an acid and a base (usually baking powder, which is activated by liquid).  The other is through the whipping of the egg whites.  I will confess that I have skipped the egg white whipping portion of the recipe and just tossed the eggs in there and really, saw no appreciable difference.  I’m serving a 7 and a 10 year old.  Not Gordon Ramsey.   So, when you get to that part of the recipe, understand that you can take a short cut.  Also, I have substituted Whole White Wheat flour from King Arthur Flour for the All Purpose Flour and no one seemed to notice.

Chocolate Chip Waffles

1 3/4 cups of all purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
3 eggs, separated
1 3/4 cups of milk
6 tablespoons of butter, melted and cooled
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups chocolate chips (I use 60% cacao)

Preheat waffle iron.

In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Whisk until aerated and well combined. In a separate bowl, whisk together milk, butter and vanilla. Slowly add the wet mixture to the flour mixture and stir just until the flour mixture is moistened.

In a mixing bowl, beat egg whites until they hold firm peaks.

Fold the egg whites into the now moistened flour mixture until just combined.  Gently fold in the chocolate chips.

Spray the waffle iron with a spray oil (I use coconut) and then follow your waffle iron’s instructions.  I freeze the leftovers in a freezer bag and enjoy the rest of the week.

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Chocolate and Cinnamon Babka

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Blog post #2!  Look at me go!  My lovely neighbor Sherron from www.simply-gourmet.com issued a bread throwdown.  Ok, not really.  Sherron is really sweet and would never turn cooking into a competitive sport.  She is part of a group (#twelveloaves) that encourages people to bake bread and submit their experience to share with others.  Sherron made a Pinca, a Croatian Easter bread.  I know, crazy impressive with just the name alone.  However, she went a step further and adapted the bread by making it gluten free.  Wow, right?  Others submitted Italian Easter Bread, Hot Cross Buns and American Irish Soda Bread.  What would I submit and would anyone care?

Before I even begin, I have one small issue.  Bread is my Waterloo.  My mother hated making anything with yeast, so we didn’t.   Not one yeasted roll or bread loaf.  Nada.  My mother has hundreds of cookbooks and reads them all cover to cover.  Any recipe that called for yeast might as well have had arsenic as the first ingredient.  She just wasn’t making it.  I grew up with a very healthy fear of all recipes with yeast in it.

After getting sick of buying bread with inferior and rather scary ingredients, I decided to go out on a limb and get a bread maker.  King Arthur Flour made it sound very easy, and it was.  Dump everything in the bread maker and push a button.  Viola! Bread.  Organic bread for cheap, once you factored out the cost of the bread maker, of course.  Factoring in the bread maker cost and you are looking at a few months before break even.  Challah is my favorite bread to make in the machine.  My kids consider that white bread.  I do pity them when they grow up and realize white bread is something totally different.

Do I stray from the machine?  No.  Not.  Ever.  However, given the lovely pictures and descriptions of the breads submitted, I didn’t think my bread machine bread was going to cut it.   Reading through various recipes, I realized most ingredients for modern breads are recorded by weight, not volume.  Alton Brown did this in his Good Eats show and I turned the channel. Many bakers weigh their ingredients to ensure consistency and success.  This level of precision and scientific interloping causes me fits because I am a cups and teaspoon girl.   Getting the scale out, setting it to zero with a bowl on it and slowly adding the ingredients one at a time takes the joy out of cooking for me.   Too many “things” cluttering up my workspace and putting barricades between me and the food.  The baking process becomes slow and laborious and the constant weighing really takes the expertise of the cook out of it.

Historic cookbooks describe baking bread as among one of the greatest accomplishments a housewife can perform.  Besides making your own yeast from potatoes and hops and dealing with what can only be described as less than consistent yeast and flour inputs, the bakers of yore had to contend with the fire.   That’s right, actual fire.  Now we have instant yeast and an oven that (hopefully) provides a consistent temperature.   We can even buy extremely consistent flours.  Had women of yore had access to SAF yeast, consistent flour blends and an oven, I very much doubt these women would have had to weigh anything.

So, I wasn’t weighing anything, leaving me to find a recipe with ingredients by volume.   I combed all of my old sources of historic recipes and nothing seemed to match the rather seasonal nature of the breads submitted.  I found an Easter Babka recipe that was rooted in Polish tradition and asked my husband if he remembered his very Polish grandparents making Babka for him.  Nope.  Another recipe killer for me was that the recipes I found for said Babka had dried fruits as ingredients.   I dislike dried fruits in my baked goods.  Dislike is a kind word.

But, the word Babka reminded me of one of my favorite Seinfeld episodes:  The Dinner Party.   I am a HUGE Seinfeld fan.  Jerry and Elaine wanted to bring a Chocolate Babka to a dinner party.  The bakery had sold out of the Chocolate Babka and only had a Cinnamon Babka, which Elaine considered the “lesser Babka”.  Hilarity ensued.  So, I decided to make a Chocolate Cinnamon Babka.  One, it has chocolate, two, I heart Seinfeld, and three it kind of (sorta) went with the Easter theme of the #twelveloaves challenge.   Besides, who wouldn’t want to unite the lesser and greater Babkas to create a super Babka!

Also, this recipe exemplifies how I think our cooking should have evolved without the influence of prepackaged “food”.   Here a lovely, simple sweet yeast bread is combined with ingredients far more accessible now.  To pull off Chocolate and Cinnamon Babka successfully, time, patience and quality ingredients are required.   There are no Babka mixes or pop open tubes in the grocery store.  Also, modern conveniences like standardized flour, instant yeast and great chocolate and cinnamon make this dish relatively easy.

Martha Stewart’s receipt for Chocolate and Cinnamon Babka is the easiest to find on the internet.  However, it makes 3 loaves and calls for over 2 lbs of chocolate, the best of course!  Not wanting to spend nearly $30 on just chocolate for a bread that might fail, given my lack of measuring, I wanted to look for something a tad cheaper.  Also, this bread kind of violated almost all of my “low carb” rules.  One could argue that the cinnamon helps regulate the blood sugar, but seriously, this recipe is clearly a splurge.

I found a lovely recipe at purplefoodie.com that Shaheen Peerbhai got from Peter Reinhart’s Artisan Bread Everyday and decided to give it a try:

Chocolate and Cinnamon Babka

Adapted from Shaheen Peerbhai’s purplefoodie.com and Peter Reinhart’s Artisan Breads Everyday

Bread:

2 Tablespoons instant yeast

¾ Cup lukewarm milk

6 Tablespoons butter

6 Tablespoons sugar

1 Teaspoon bourbon vanilla

4 Egg yolks

3 ¾ Cups all purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

Filling:

1 ½ Cups semisweet chocolate, coarsely processed in a food processor

1 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon (if you aren’t a huge Cinnamon fan, I’d use 1/2 teaspoon)

¼ Cup butter, melted

½ Teaspoon salt

Combine the yeast and the milk and set aside.

Cream the butter and the sugar in a stand mixing bowl.  Add the vanilla.  Incorporate each egg yolk separately.  Allow 30 seconds to pass before adding each yolk.   Gradually add the flour and the salt.    After the flour and salt are well combined with the other ingredients, add the milk and yeast mixture.  Continue mixing until a soft dough is formed.  Dump the dough on a well floured surface and knead by hand until you have a soft, supple and golden dough.

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Hardly supple.

The original recipe called for 3 ½ cups of flour.  My dough was a sticky, unworkable mess at this point, as you can see.  One of the dangers of going by volume.  But who doesn’t like a dash of danger, right?   I added probably about ½ a cup more to get the dough “soft and supple”.    So, for the recipe above, I increased the amount of flour to 3 ¾ cups of flour.  You may need to add more.  Just the nature of not weighing the ingredients.

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Much better!

Place the dough in a lightly oil bowl and cover with a damp cloth and let it rise for 2 hours.

Just before the end of the rise, combine the chocolate, cinnamon, butter and salt in a small bowl.

Once risen, roll the dough out on a floured surface to a thickness of 1/4th inch think.

Place the chocolate mixture over the dough sheet, creating a smaller chocolate rectangle in the middle of the dough rectangle.

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Roll the dough lengthwise and pinch the seams to keeps chocolate leaks to a minimum.  I cut my log in half and pinched the ends to form two logs.

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You can get really fancy and cut the log into two sections about three quarters of the way through and braid the log.  When I read that in the original instructions, I was like, sure I can, or, I can just cook the log and not make a hot mess out of this thing.  I never mastered braiding inanimate ribbon and now I am supposed to braid soft, yeasty dough?  Nope. Not gonna happen.

Place each log (or the single braided loaf for the over achievers out there) on the baking sheet you intend to use, cover with a damp cloth and let rise again for another 2 hours.

Bake in a 350F degree oven for 15-20 minutes,  turning the baking sheet halfway through the cooking time.

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Simple, but really good!

This bread disappeared.  I had two loaves for less than 24 hours.  It’s that good.  Elaine would not consider it the lesser Babka!